Most of what I make is veg-tan leather. I choose it over chrome-tan because of the environmental issues with the chemicals used in chrome tanning. It isn't quite everything, though. The Soft Metallic Leather Glasses Case is chrome-tanned, and the two leathers behave quite differently once they're in your pocket or bag. Treat them the same and you can end up doing more harm than good, so here's how to tell them apart and how to look after each one.
What's actually different
Both start as hide. The difference is the tanning, the process that turns raw hide into stable, usable leather.
Veg-tan is tanned with natural tannins from plant material like tree bark. It's slow, and the leather that comes out is firm, holds its shape well, and takes a crisp edge when it's cut and burnished. It's also "alive" in the sense that it keeps reacting to the world: it soaks up oils from your hands, darkens in the light and slowly builds up a patina.
Chrome-tan is tanned with chromium salts. It's much quicker, and the result is softer, more flexible and more resistant to water. It's very stable, so it doesn't change much over the years. That's why it suits finishes like metallic coatings, which are meant to stay looking the way they did on day one.
A rough way to tell them apart in your hands: veg-tan feels firm and slightly dry, and the cut edges can be smoothed and polished. Chrome-tan feels softer and more supple, and its edges usually stay a bit fibrous.
Looking after veg-tan
Veg-tan is low maintenance as long as you don't overdo it. Most of the time, just using it is the best care it can get.
- Let it darken. The colour will deepen with handling and daylight. That's the patina forming, not damage. A piece like the Duporth coin purse in mahogany oak will look noticeably richer after a few months of carrying.
- Condition sparingly. A thin coat of a leather balm once or twice a year is plenty for everyday items. If it starts to look dry or pale, that's your cue. Too much conditioner makes leather soft, floppy and dark, and you can't easily undo that.
- Be careful with water. Veg-tan doesn't love getting wet. A few drops will often leave a dark spot. If it gets caught in the rain, pat it dry with a cloth and let it dry slowly at room temperature. Never put it on a radiator or use a hairdryer, as fast drying can make it stiff and crack.
- Keep it away from strong heat and sun for long spells. A car dashboard in summer is about the worst place for it.
The same goes broadly for the Italian pull-up and Badalassi Carlo wax leathers in my Premium Italian Leather range. These are packed with oils and wax, so light scuffs can often be rubbed out with a warm thumb, and they need conditioning even less often.
I've put a fuller step-by-step on my veg-tan leather care page if you want more detail.
Looking after chrome-tan and metallic leather
Chrome-tan needs even less from you, but the rules are a bit different, especially with a metallic finish.
- Wipe, don't scrub. A soft cloth, slightly damp, is all you need to clean it. Let it air dry.
- Skip the oils and balms. The metallic sheen is a finish sitting on the surface. Conditioners and oils won't soak in the way they do with veg-tan, and they can leave the surface dull or smeary.
- Avoid harsh cleaners and solvents. Anything with alcohol or strong chemicals can strip or cloud the finish.
- Watch for sharp edges. Keys and coins in the same bag pocket can scratch a metallic surface over time. Unlike veg-tan, it won't blend those marks into a patina.
The upside is that chrome-tan shrugs off a bit of rain far better than veg-tan, and it'll stay soft and keep its colour without you having to think about it.
Which should you choose?
For me, veg-tan is the one to go for. It changes with you, tells the story of where it's been, and it's the kinder choice of the two. Chrome-tan has its place for the odd piece like a soft metallic case, but if you're after something to carry every day for years, veg-tan is what I'd point you towards.
Either way, if something goes wrong with the leather or stitching on a veg-tan, full-grain or pull-up piece, it's covered by my lifetime repair warranty. And delivery is free in the UK on orders over £25, with everything dispatched within 24–48 hours.
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